During Milan Design Week, a range of installations and product launches captured attention for their blend of heritage and contemporary flair, offering a snapshot of current design trends.
Designers highlighted the city’s role as a hub for experimental and heritage‑driven work.
Gucci’s Rosso Ancora Revives Classic Italian Design
Gucci’s new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, introduced the signature hue Rosso Ancora in his 2023 runway debut. The shade draws inspiration from Italian opera singer Misa’s 1978 hit “Ancora ancora ancora.” Five iconic pieces from the 1994 Storet line by Nanda Vigo for Acerbis were re‑edited in this vivid red and displayed at Gucci’s Milan flagship store. The reimagining links past craftsmanship with a modern color narrative, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to reinterpretation.
Ambient Lighting Innovations from Grau and Formafantasma
Grau unveiled “Fire in Milan,” a collection of ambient lighting designed to improve sleep quality and mental well‑being. The fixtures emit melatonin‑producing warm light that users can dim with a click, and a built‑in ultra‑fast charger promises up to 50 hours of portable illumination.
In a separate collaboration, Formafantasma created the “Superwire” series for Flos, featuring a thin, flexible LED strip that delivers consistent warm light over a meter’s length. The design emphasizes repairability; glass panels can be removed and the strip replaced without discarding the entire unit.
Both projects reflect a growing focus on health‑centred lighting, though their approaches differ. Grau’s system integrates battery power for mobility, while Formafantasma’s solution targets fixed installations with an eye toward longevity.
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Faye Toogood’s Rude Collection Highlights Female Energy
At the Rude Arts Club exhibition, Faye Toogood presented the “Rude Collection” for CC‑Tapis. The series includes abstracted, fleshy‑shaped carpets in blood‑red blobs, meant to celebrate womanhood and sexuality. The tactile pieces stand out amid this year’s debut collections, marking a rare exploration of such themes within the design industry.
Muuto’s Brera Apartment Explores the Feeling of Home
Muuto’s six‑room Brera apartment in Milan interrogates what constitutes the sense of home. According to CEO Line Brockman Jule, the project shifts attention from individual objects to an overall atmosphere that encourages occupants to be more intentional about their living spaces. The installation combines furniture, lighting, and textiles to create a cohesive environment, rather than a showcase of isolated products.
Visitors experienced the space as a seamless interior installation, blurring the line between art and everyday living.
Marimekko’s Unniko Bar Gets a Bright Makeover
The iconic bar in Milan received a full Marimekko refresh, wrapping its furniture, awnings, flooring, and staff uniforms in the bold pink and orange Unniko print originally designed by Maija Isola in 1964. The transformation blends historic pattern work with contemporary hospitality design, reinforcing the brand’s lasting visual identity.
Dedar Milano’s Tiger‑Inspired Fabric Performance
Dedar introduced a pattern‑forward collection of fabrics, celebrated through the performance “Sapessi com’è strano vedere una tigre a Milano” by French artist Sulian Rios. Dressed in tiger motifs, Rios moved through Milan’s streets, turning fabric into kinetic art. The show highlighted Dedar’s emphasis on texture and narrative within textile design.
Original Perspective
While each installation offers a distinct aesthetic, the common thread appears to be a dialogue between past and present. Designers are reworking archival pieces or classic motifs, applying new technologies or contemporary color palettes. This suggests a market where nostalgia is balanced with functional innovation, a blend likely to influence future collections beyond the event itself.
